Eyelet-sewing machine.



' DLNOBLE( Ev-ELET SEWING cimes-ame.A

APPLICATIQH FILED 00T. 24. 19H.

www my u, m5.

6 SHEETS-SHEET i.

WIT/VESSEL?.

n. NOBLE.

' .EYEILET SEWING MACHINE.

` APPLIQATIOII FILED OCT-24| 19H.

o In@ D. NOBLE.

EYELET SEWING MACHINE. ArPLrlcAloN FILED ocT. 24. '1911.

3191 53994371, meme@ May u, im

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

l/Illl/ll/ l wml/8858: nvm/Ton @www maze.

y D. -N-OBLE. EYELH SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED ocT. 24, I9II.

)Patented 4May M, l9l5.

EETS--HELT 4.

wim/8358.-

4%. ZL@ @ha Iron/IU D. NOBLE.

' EYELET SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 24. I9II.

Patented Mayu, 1915.

6 SHEETS-'SHEET 5- @gm ma D. NOBLE'.

EIELET SEWING MACHINE APPLICATION FILED OCT. 24. 1911.

LQQ I Patented May 11, 1915.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

' ject is the improved means employed for -Tn sTaTns TnTTnT @Tieren DONA'D NOBLE, OF BBIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TQ THE SNGER MANU- .FACTURING QOMPANY, la CORPORATION NEW JERSEY.

EYELET-SEWING MACHINE.

rasata?.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application led October 24, 1911. Serial No. 856,463.

and State of Connecticut, have invented .certain new. and useful Improvements in Eyelet-Sewing Machines, of whichnthe following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

rlhis invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, and important to its ob-v giving to the stitch-forming mechanism its cycle of movement for placing the overseam stitches, and for reinforcing the eyelet by the employmentJ o 'a suitable layer or layers of cord.

hile it is old to' reinforce astitched eyelet by usihg a single cord or by rings composed of metal or fiber, it is believed to be new to employ multiple layers of cord,

thereby eii'ecting what -is practically an endless reinforcing element which may be more .conveniently applied and is less expensive than the earlier forms, and has the additional advantage o permitting the number of layers to 'be regulated to meet the requirements of fabrics of diierent texture .and the number of plies comprising the body fabric receiving the eyelet.

ln the accompanying drawin' s illustrating the invention, 1n the severa figures of which like parts are similarly designated,

,l Figure 1 is a view in front side elevation of i View of Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a sectional plan view on the lines A-B, Fig. 1, showing the main shaft adjusted a quarter turn slower,

than in the last' mentioned figure. `Fig. 5 isalflfront end .elevation of Fig. 1. Fig. 6

is affilear end `elevator of Fig. -1. 'Fig'. 'i'v isa-section on the line itk-E, Fig."1, looking toward the rear end of the machine@l Fig.'

8is a section on the lines C-D, Fig. 1,'looking toward the front end of'the machine. \Fig. 9 comprises peripheral and reverse side viewsof the stitch-changing cam disk. Figs. 10 and Mare end and ront side elevations, respectively, of certain, coacting elements, having to do mainly with the stitch- `changing mechanism. Fig. 12 is a rear side View of a portion of the bracket arm head illustrating the mounting of the needle-baractuating slide. Figs. 13 and 14 illustrate certain details ofthe mechanism for controlling the time of action of the stop-ino- Ation mechanism. Fig. 15 is a cross-section of the needle-bar-actuating slide and suiiicient of th'e bracket arm head to show their operative relationship. Fig. 16 is a central `vertical section of the loop-taker standard and cord-carrying eyelet spur. Fig. 17 is a detail View, partially in full lines and par-,f

tially in section of the crank-shaft actuating mechanism. Fig. 18 is a View cfa' stitched eyelet, the product of the improved machine. Fig. 19 is a view in section of a portion of a head of the bracket arm and the needle-registering bracket, the latter of which is shown in front side elevation, Fig. 1.

1 represents 'the bed-plate of the sewing machine upon which is mounted the bracket arm comprising the arm bracket 2 and standard 3, 4 the main or needle-bar-driving shaft provided with a crank 5, and 6 the hollow needle-bar mounted in an oscillating needle-bar frame f? on pintle screws, as 8, threaded into the belt-pulley 9 mounted on the upper end of the cylinder 10, said screws passi-ng through suitableopcnings in said cylinder and enterin countersunk notches formed in the frame i The upper half of the needle-bar frame is tubed to correspond to the diameter of the needle-bar and the lower half to receivethe bushing .11v in which is mounted the lower end f said needle-bar, said frame carrying oppositely arranged screws, as 12,' vwhich pass through said needle-bar frame and are Patenten nay ri, reis. l

threaded into the bushing 11, the outer ends of said screws extending throughopenings, as 13, inthe cylinder 10 and through oppositely arranged cam slots, as 14, formed in a vertically movable cylinder 15, -tol be referred to hereinafter.

To the needle-bar 6 is rigidly secured a collar. 16 provided with a groove 17 into which extend oppositely arranged flanges, as 18, which in turn are secured by. screws, as 19, to anannular ring 2O provided with a groove 21 which coacts with a fol'led arm Q2 carried by the' needle-bar-actuating slide 23 mounted te move vertically in guid aways,

' as 26, (see Fig.

as 24, (see Fig.A 15) formed in the head 25 of the bracket arm, said slide being held against displacement by suitable guide bars, 12) the upper ends of which enter suitable openings (not shown) formed in said heads, their lower portions being secured by av suitable bracket 26. Motion is being transmitted from ,the main shaft 4 to said needle-bar-actuating slide'through the cam roller 27 entering a cam slot 28 formed in said needle-bar-actuating slide, said roller mounted upon a stud 29 secured in'a flange 30 carried by the main or needle-bardriving shaft.

` able presser-lifting Formedy in the upper end of the cylinder 15 is -an annular groove 33 into which procured upon a rock-shaft 44 mounted in a bearing 45 located at the underside ofthe bracket arm. The rock-shaft 44 at its forward end is provided with an arm 46 having a slot 47 in which is adjustably secured a stud-48, the innel` end of which coacts with a groove 49 formed ina lever 50 pivoted at one end upon a rock-shaft 51 and secured by screw 52 in a bearing 53 formed in the bracket arm, the lever 50 being provided at its lower end with a cam follower 54 which tracks the grooves of the switch cam 55 carried by the main or needle-bar-driving shaft, thus, through the connections 12, 15,'

34, 35, 40, 43, 44, 46, 48', 50, 51, 54 and 55, oscillatory movements are transmitted to the needle-bar 6. The rock-shaft 44 is suiliciently long to permit it to be moved in the direction of its length in the bearings 45, for a purpose now to be explained.l

56 represents a horizontally arranged rock-shaft mounted in suitable bearings forming a part of the bracket arm, said shaft being provided at its forward end with a suitably secured collar 57 to prevent endwise movement in a direction away from the'front of the machine, and on the side of the front bearing of the shaft 56 opposite the collar 57 is secured a lever 58, the lower' end of which acts upon the rear end of the rock-shaft 44 to move it in opposition to the resiliency of the spring 59 in a direction to disconnect the stud 48 from they groove 49 when it is desired to discontinue the vertical movements of the cylinder 15, and to eifect this the horizontal shaft 56 is pro-` vided with1 a' depending lever 60 having its a link 61 Awith a Vrock-lever pivoted upon a stud 63 secured lating connections,

in the arm standard, a spring l64 acting through the link 61 to resiliently hold the lationship with the stitch-changing cam disk 65, which latter acts upon the elements 62, 61, 60 and 64 to hold the lever 58 out of operative relationship with the end of the shaft 44 except at such time as it-is desired to discontinue the horizontal movements of the cylinder 15.

66 represents a feed-shaft'journaled at one end in a bearing 67 formed in the arm standard, its opposite end being journaled in a'bearing 68 formed in the bracket 69 extending out from the inner Wall of said standard. Upon the shaft 66 is secured a ratchetdisk 70, ofy ordinary construction, which is* actuated through the stitch-regu-- 72 carried by the main shaft 5. The shaft 66 carries at its opposite end a gear plnion 7 3 which coacts with a gear wheel 74 'our naled upon a stud 75 secured by a nut 6 in the standard 4, said pinion and ear wheel being of the ratio of two to one, t us giving to the latter one revolution to two of said pinion. 1 T he disk 65 secured to the gear wheel 74 is provided with a rim 77, a portion of which is cut away to form a notch or wall 78 and a straight portion 7 9 extending from said wall to the point 80, from which point said rim is provided with an inclined por. tion 8l extending' to the point 82 0I' directly vopposite the wall 78. The end 84 of the and it has been deemed suiicient to designate the principal elements illustrated by the numeral 85.

Referring to the means for controlling the time of action'of the stop-motion mechamsm, 85 represents a shiftingA lever which is mounted to oscillate on a bearing 86 forming a part of the standard 3 and held against displacement by a screw 38, (he forward end of said lever being provided with the usual cam slot 89 into which projects the regularly employed stud 89 from the lever 88 for operatively connecting the lever 85 with the stop-motionelements mounted on the main shaft 5. The spring 90 acts upon the lever 85 to hold the commonly emp/loyed brake (not shown) ,in effective relationship with the periphery of the brake fdisk 9() frctionally connected with the machine belt pulley 91, a collar 91 carried by the manually actuated treadle rod 92 acting, at the will of the operator, and in oppositiorrto the as 71, from an eccentric los' ,'resiliency of the spring 90', to oscillate said said plunger, when the-machine is at rest,l

occupying the position shown'in ig. 11 with its inner end 95 in contact wlth the Wall 96 of the opening 97 formed in the` cam disk and its outer end flush with the outer face 98 of the hub 94, at which time the lever occupies its position-for hold ing the machine inoperative.

0n the inner side of the lever 85 is slidably mounted a bar 99 normally held by a spring 100 in its outward position (see Fig, 14), said bar being provided with a cam plate 101 which, as will now be explained, coacts withthe outer end of the plunger 93 to lock the lever 85 in brake releasing position, thus permitting the machine to be actuated.

To start the machine the operator, through the manipulation of the treadle rod 92, oscillates the lever 85 to position the stud 89 -in the upper end of the cam slot 89, which effects the release of the brake and starts the machine, and in the rotation of the cam disk'65 the inclined portion 102 forces ther-plunger 93 outward in opposition to ,the resiliency of the spring 103, causing the forward end 104i of said plunger to be positioned directly above the upper .edge of the plate 101 carried by the bar 99, thus locking the lever 85 against reverse oscillation, or in a direction to automatically arrest the action of the machine until, by the rotation of the camv disk 65, the plunger A93again enters the opening 97. In case it is desired to bring the machine to rest between the commencement and completion of the eyelet, the operator moves the bar 99 endwise in opposition to the resiliency of the spring 100, thusv causing the plunger to drop oli from theupper edge of the plate 101, as shown in Fig. 13.

105 represents a bracket adjustably selcured by screws, as 106, tothe lower side of A'the sewing machine bed-plate, said bracket at its lower end being provided with a bearing 107 in which is fitted a bushing 108 eX- tending slightly above said bearing.

109 represents a hollow looper-carrier standard which, at its lowerend, passes through the bushing 108 and is held against upward movements by nuts, as 110, a step bracket 111 mounted upon said standard andV secured by pinch screwl 112 acting to hold said standard against downward movement. The standard 109 carries at its upper end a belt-pulley 11.3 provided with a recess 114 .in which' is secured by screw 115 the standard extension 116 journaled in a bearing 117 formed in the cloth-plate 118, said extension beinglprovided with a throat or needle plate 119.

endvwith arms, as 125, into which project the respective pintle screws 126 secured by the respective pinch screws, as 127, in the respectivelugs, as 128, extending from the bed-plate l, thefo'rward end of said lever being forked to embrace the looper-actuating `disk 129 provided with a groove 130vinto `which extend followers, as 131, carried by the-respective arms comprising said forked ends.

The looper-actuating disk 129 is mounted to move vertically on the oscillating hollow standard 109, and to guard said disk against any tendency to bind upon said standard, there is provided a bushing 132 held in sliding relationship with the inner wall of said standard ,by screws, as 133, which pass through a hub 134 and through suitableslots, as 109', formed in said standard and are threaded into saidv bushing. r1`he disk 129 is given its vertical movements through the crank 5, crank connection 136, oval bearing 137 and lever 124, thus, through the action of the threaded opening (not shown) in the disk 129 through which the member' 120 passes, oscillatory stitch-forming movements are transmitted to the loop-taker 123.

To hold the fabric stationary during the stitching operation, there Vis provided a' cloth-presser 139 which, in the present instance, is formed integral with the clothpresser bar 140 (see F ig. 5) which is mounted in suitable bearings formed in the head 25 and held against displacement by the bearing caps 37. The cylinder 10 at its upper end 1s journaled inA a suitable bearing formed in the ca 37 and at its opposite end in the like cap 3 and is held against movement in the direction of its length by the belt-pulley 9 and a suitably secured collar 146 arranged on opposite sidesor" the upper of the bearing caps 37.

For Vlfioldingr.; the cloth-presser 139 down upon the fabric during the stitching' operation, there is provided a cloth-presser-bar spring 1417 mounted at one end in a suitable opening formed in the head 25 and at its iopposite end in 4a suitable opening iformed in the lug 1 /18 carried by the bar 140, a hand lever 149 pivoted on a screw/i150 secured in said head acting upon a lug 151 carried by the bar to lift said cloth-presser away lfrom the fabric at the will of the operator,

when for any purpose it is desired to manually adjust said fabric under the needle.

When stitching eyelets ii comparatively thin materials, it is desirable that the fabric be held down upon the needle-plate .directly about the spur rod 17 6, and to this end there is provided an auxiliary cloth-presser 153 carried by a depending bracket 154 forming a part of the ring 155 slidably mounted on the cylinder 10. To cause the auxiliary cloth-presser 153 to be lifted from the fabric at such time as the` stitch-forming mechaformed in the ring 155, a spring 163 acting :the cam 156.

` o the standard 109, a spring to hold the cloth-presser 153 down upon the fabric when released from the control of Theneedle-thread take-up 164 is provided at its forward end with a thread-leader 165 of ordinary construction and at itsopposite end is secured, by screw 166, 'upon a rockshaft 167` journaled in suitable bearings formed in the lug 168, the opposite end of said rock-shaftcarrying a lever 169 provided with a stud 170 which tracks a cam. groove 171 of the take-up cam 172 carried by the shaft 4. I l

`In the threading of the machine, the needie-thread is passed from the supply through the thread-Check 173, tension disk 174, thread-leader 175 and through the leader 165 to the hollow needle-bar 6, after whichlit is passed through the needle eye.

176 represents a tubular spur rod' mountedto move vertically in the standard 109, its upper end being slidably mounted in the standard extension 116 and its opposite end in -abushing 177 secured in said standard by screw 178, which'latter also acts to hold said spur rod against rotationindependent 177 seated at one end on the bushing 17 and with its f lopposite end in contactwith the collar 179 acting to hold said spur rod in its normal orclevated position'.

181 represents a treadlev rod (theupper l portion only of which is shownpsecured byl jam nuts, as 182, to the lower end of said Aspur rod; said treadle rod, through suitable and well understood manually actuated means (not shown) acting, at the will of v the operator, to move said spur rod downward sufliciently .topla'ee the-spur 183 out of interference with the manual lmanipulation of the fabric, as wlien'fplacin or readf.

justing thelatter in' effective re ationship with t e meansfor formlng stitches. vi the eccentric 72, connections, as 71, and

' .the 'manip bracket is mounted a cord supply 18.6`from which asuitable cord, as 187, is passed' up through the hollowT spur rod and out through an opening 188 formed in the spur 183, -for a purpose. ater to be explained. d v

` 189 represents a rotary crank shaft mountedy at its upper end in a suitable bearing. formed in the'bracket arm, and at its lower end in a bea-ring 190, said shaft carrying a spiral gear 191 which meshes withv a spiral gear 192 carried by the feed-shaft 6.6. To the'upper end of the shaft -189 is secured a belt-pulley 193 connected' by a belt 194' with the pulley 9, and near the lower end of said shaft lis suitably secured a disk 195 proi yided with a groove 196,-and upon saiddisk 1s mounted a belt-pulley 197 connected by a belt 198 with th'epulley 113, thus, through ratchet vdisk 70, step-by-step rotary movements are transmitted from the main shaft I I 4 to the cylinder 10, standard 109 a'nd'parts` l carried by said cylinder and standard.

The pulley 197 is recessed for the reception of the disk 195 and, in the' present instance, is formed integral with the hollow.

shaft 199 and crank bar 200, the latter of which carries a erankhandle 201. 202 is a ,spring seated at its lower end upon a collar 203 secured to theshaft 189 and acting on the pulley 197 to hold its pin 204 in engagement withl a suitableopening 204 formed in said disk, thus causing the pulley 197 to be rotated by the action of the shaft 189. When, 4for a purpose later to be explained, 1t is desired fto manually rotate the standard 109 independently of the rotary movements u of thev cylinder 10, the operator, in opposition 'to the resiliency of the spring 202, posi-- tions the pulley 197 with its pin 204 out -of engagement with the disk 195,- thus leaving said pulleyv freeI to rotate said standard. The screw 205 secured in the pulley 197 acts to limit the downward movement ofthe lat-` ter by its inner end contacting with the lower wall of the groove 196.

In the operation of the machine, supposing the'fabric to be positioned under the needle and the spur extending up through.

theeyelet opening, and it is desired to rem! force the eyelet by the application of a cord,

the operator, before positioning said fabric, i

draws the cord out so that it will lie beizo neath the fabric and extend out from under the cloth-presser, disconnects the pulley 197 from the disk 195 and, through the manual manipulation of the crank handle 201, vwinds the cord about the spur rod one o'r more turns, as'the nature of the product may require, when 'the ,machine will. be ready for effective act1on; When about to commence the stitchin operation the operator, throughv ationgof the fotvtreadle, moves iso A fabric spur, and means for giving;` to the Liedes? the collar 91 to rock the lever 85 to start the machine in action, followed by the free end of the lever 84 riding the periphery of said cam until it reaches the wall 78, during Awhich time the overseam stitches 208 have been formed, when the free end 84 of the lever 62 `drops ed from the .wall 7 8 and thus, through the connections pointed out, the

A lever 58 is caused to move the shaft 44 endwise, which carries the pin 18 out of operative relationship with the slot 49 in the vibrating lever 50 and forces the lever 43 in contact with the wall 209 of the needle-registering bracket 210 secured by suitable screws, as 211, to the head ofthe bracket arm; and as the switch cam vibrates the lever 43 in line with the notch 212 in said registering bracket, said lever acts to lock the cylinder 15 Aagainst vertical movements and positions the needle for making the intermediate line 213 of circular stitches in any desired position, dependent upon the adjustment of the registering bracket 210, and' as soon as the line 213 is completed the stopmotion mechanism is brought into action to arrest the action of the machine.

1. In a sewing machine, the combination with' a stitch-forming mechanism and means for changing the' relative position of .the latter and the fabric beingacted on to effect circularly arranged stitches, of/a latter rotary movements' independent of and prior to the stitching operation to prdvide said circularly arranged stitches with a reinforcing element.

2. ln a sewing machine, they combination with a stitch-forming mechanism including a needle-bar provided with an opening Within its diameter for the passage of a needle thread, and means for changing the relative positions of the needle-bar and( the fabric being acted on to effect circularlyiarrangedstitches, of a fabric spur, and means for giving to the latter rotary movements independent of and priorf'to .the stitching` operation to provide said circularly varranged stitches with a reinforcing element.

3. ln a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism and means for changing the relative position of the latter and the fabric being acted on to effect circularly arranged stitches, of a spur rod provided with a fabric spur and with an opening located Within the diameter of said rodvfor the passage of a cord, and

means for giving to said rod rotary movements independent of and prior to the stitching operation to provide said circularly arranged stitches with a reinforcing clement.

a. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism including a needle-bar provided with an opening withinits diameter for the passage of the needle thread, and means for changin the relative positions of the needle-bar andI the' fabric `being acted on to e'ect circularly ai'-v ranged stitches, of a spur rod provided withv4 a fabric spur and withan opening located i within the diameter of said rod for the passage of a cord, and means for giving to .said

rod rotary movements independentl of and.4

prior tothe stitching operation to provide said circularly arranged stitches with a reinforcing element,

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism and meansy for changing the relative positions of the latter and the fabric being acted on to e'ectA circularly arranged stitches, of a rotary looper carrier .standard provided4 with.. a

spur rod terminating ,in a fabric spur, and

means for giving to said standard rotary movements independent of and prior to thestitching operation to provide said circularly arranged stitches with a reinforcin element.

6. ln -a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism including automatically controlled means for changing the character of the seam l.during the stitching operation, and means for changing the relative positions of `said stitch-forming mechanism and the fabric being acted on to effect circularly arranged stitches, of

. a fabric spur, and means for giving to the latter rotaryfmovements independent of and prior'to the stitching operation toprovide said circularly arranged stitches with a reinforcing element.

7. ln a sewing machine, the combination with va stitch-forming mechanism including a stitch-changing cam disk for changin the character'of the seam .during the stitc ing operation, and means for changing the relativepositions ofthe stitch-forming mechanism and the fabric being acted onto effect circularly arranged stitches, of a fabric spur, and means for giving to the latter rotary movements independent of and prior izo to the stitching operation to provide said circularly arranged stitches with a reinforcing element.

8. In a. sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism and means including a ratchet disk for changiisl ing the relative positions of the stitch-forming mechanisml and the fabric being acted v.

on to effect circularly arranged. s titchesfof a fabric spur, and means for giving to theA latter rotary movements independent of and prior to the stitching operation to provide said circuiariy arranged stitches with a reinforcing element.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stitchforming mechanism including a stitch-changing cam disk for changing the character of theA seam-during the stitching operation, and means including a ratchet disk for changing the relative positions of the stitch-forming mechanism and the fabric being acted on to effect circuiarly arranged stitches, of a fabric spur, and means for giving to the latter rotary movements independent of and prior to the stitching operation to provide said circu- 4lariy arranged stitches With a reinforcing element.

l0. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism including a stitch-changing'cam disk for changing the character of the seam during the stitching operation,l and means including'a ratchet disk for changing the relative positions of the stitch-forming mechanism and the fabric being acted on to effect crcularly arranged stitches, o a rotary lccper vcarrier standard provided With a spur rod terminating in a fabric spur, and means for giving to said standard rotary movements independent of and prior to the stitching operation to prvide said circulariy arranged stitches With a reinforcing element. v

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this speoiication in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

. DONALD NOBLE.

Witnesses: i

Anm M. DONIHEE, WrLLIAM R. ABERCROMBIE. 

